Ronda is the largest of the Andalucian white towns (pueblos blancos) with a population of 40,000. The city itself is considered to be one of Spain's longest continuously occupied cities, certainly the Celts, Phoenicians, and Romans all had their day at Acinipo, a ruined city not far from Ronda.
Despite recent expansion and the increasing number of tourists who visit
Ronda every year, the city still retains its charm, and with development restrictions in place is likely to maintain these for many years to come.
The rio Guadalevin runs through the heart of Ronda and over the last few thousand years has cut a deep gorge, 'El Tajo', which separates the old and new parts of Ronda. At 110m deep, the gorge is a spectacular site on its own, but add
Ronda's Puente Nuevo (the new bridge), which is one of Spain's most photographed architectural wonders, and you can see why Ronda is so popular.
Tourists will love the compact nature of Ronda, almost every attraction in Ronda is within a 10 minute walk of the tourist office in Plaza de
Blas Infante, immediately next to the bullring, the
Plaza de Toros, which rarely sees a bull or matador these days but does house a museum that showcases the history of the Ronda school of bullfighting. It was here in the 1700s that Pedro Romero broke with tradition and decided to face a bull on his feet instead of on horseback thus beginning a new tradition.
Directly opposite
Plaza de Toros is Calle Espenil, Ronda's pedestrianised main shopping precinct, and known affectionately as 'La Bola'. The side streets leading off Calle Espenil are home to dozens of great restaurants and tapas bars, as well as little tourist shops selling everything from postcards to Ronda t-shirts. If you're looking for stamps for the postcards you buy, avoid the post office, instead wander down Calle Espenil about 50m and on the left you'll find a tobacconist where the staff speak a little English and where you can buy stamps. Then head back to the Plaza de Toros to mail your cards, look for the little yellow box with the Spanish post office logo on it.
From the bullring and Plaza de Blas Infante take an easy stroll along the top of
El Tajo around past the Parador hotel until you come to the Puente Nuevo and its museum. For just 2€ you can descend into the museum under the bridge which gives a fascinating account of the gorge and how it was used, and the attempts made to cross it over the years. You'll also find out that the museum rooms were once used as a prison, and that legend tells of gruesome murders committed during the Spanish civil war.
Continuing over Puente Nuevo you are taken into Ronda's old town, 'La Cuidad', built by the Moors who actually controlled Ronda for nearly 800 years. Very little of their buildings remain, most having been destroyed by Catholic Spain in the reconquest in 1485, however what has been built in its place is a beautiful little city filled with cobbled streets, churches, mansions, and all of it whitewashed with cute little wrought-iron covered windows that are often filled with flowering annuals and pelargoniums.
Within Ronda's old city keep walking along Calle Armiñan for about 200m until to the left you see a non-descript looking brick tower next to a house with Arabic script above the door. You'll notice the tower appears to have been constructed in three separate phases, and in fact you'd be correct. The lowest portion is all that remains of a Muslim minaret, this is the
San Sebastian Minaret, and one of the very few remaining Moorish buildings.
Next I'm going to suggest heading right off Calle Armiñan and up Calle Tramposos which leads directly into Plaza Duquesa de Parcent. Immediately ahead of you stands the impressive cathedral of
Santa Maria la Mayor with its bell tower. Entrance to the cathedral only costs 2€, and is breathtaking. Despite the heat outside the cathedral always feels cool, the light from the sun streams through high windows in narrow beams of light, or through gorgeous stained glass with scenes from the new testament.
In front of
Santa Maria La Mayor is one of the most gorgeous little parks you're likely to see in any city center, it's a delightful place to sit back and enjoy being in Ronda, in Andalucia, yes, in Spain. To your left you'll see an attractive building with a line of orange trees in front of it and the entire top two thirds composed of arches. This is the Ronda Town Hall and also home to the local Police. Feel free to pick an orange from the tree, they're not just there for decoration although they do look fantastic filled with oranges.
After your moment of contemplation, take Calle Manuel Montero which is at the opposite side of
Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, and follow the street for about 50m. You are now outside the
Mondragon Palace, one old Ronda's must-see destinations. The Mondragon was rebuilt after the reconquest but still has the original patio and water features from Moorish times. These days the building is used as the Ronda City Museum and is well worth the time to enter.